In the season finale of Speak Greasy Season 3, Gauri Devidayal is joined by Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari, the husband-wife duo and chef-owners of Kari Apla, a restaurant inspired by the rich culinary traditions of the Deccan Coast. Their story is one of passion, hard work, and a shared dream to bring the food they grew up with to life through a thoughtful and modern lens.

Mathew and Ebaani both attended IHM, where they were introduced to the fundamentals of hospitality. Though they crossed paths briefly during Ebaani’s industrial training at Taj, it wasn’t until years later, after marriage, that they began working together on their shared vision. Mathew’s career started at Taj Hotels, where he gained extensive experience across eight properties. Over the years, he worked his way up, eventually heading the Orient Express kitchen in New Delhi. Later, he joined Comorin as part of the opening team, where the fast-paced environment gave him a preview of the challenges of running his own restaurant.

Ebaani’s journey included further education in London, where she specialised in cuisine and patisserie. Although visa restrictions limited her ability to work part-time, she immersed herself in culinary events, gaining exposure to international techniques. Back in India, she worked at Bastian, known for its innovative menus, before joining Taj Lands End and later moving into an R&D role. These experiences shaped her ability to create and adapt dishes, skills she now uses at Kari Apla.

The idea for Kari Apla was born during the COVID-19 lockdown when the couple began drafting a menu inspired by the food they grew up eating. Mathew’s Malayali roots and Ebaani’s Maharashtrian-Andhra heritage are reflected in their dishes, offering diners a unique blend of regional flavours presented with a contemporary touch. Despite the challenges of setting up their first restaurant, including a tight budget, a small kitchen, and initial scepticism from equipment suppliers, they managed to open their doors within 75 days of signing the lease.

Running Kari Apla has been an ongoing learning experience. The couple shares candid insights into the realities of restaurant ownership, from managing no-show reservations to handling critical reviews. They emphasise the importance of hiring team members who are eager to learn and passionate about food. For Mathew and Ebaani, attitude and willingness to experiment are far more important than technical expertise, and they actively encourage their team to bring new ideas to the table.

The menu at Kari Apla is a reflection of their shared culinary memories, adapted to meet the demands of a professional kitchen while retaining authentic flavours. Mathew and Ebaani continue to involve their team in the creative process, ensuring the menu stays dynamic and engaging. Balancing the responsibilities of running a restaurant and their personal lives comes naturally to the couple, with their complementary approaches helping them navigate challenges.

This episode offers invaluable insights for aspiring restaurateurs and food enthusiasts alike. Mathew and Ebaani’s story highlights the dedication, creativity, and perseverance required to bring a culinary dream to life. Kari Apla is more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of their roots, experiences, and love for food. Tune in to discover how this passionate duo turned their vision into reality.